Picking the Right Tree for Your Yard
Practical species recommendations by region, how close to plant to your house, and mistakes that cost thousands later.
The Thousand Dollar Mistake
A tree planted in the wrong spot costs you twice. Once when you plant it and again twenty years later when you pay someone to remove it because the roots are cracking your foundation, the branches are in the power lines, or the species turned out to be wrong for your soil. Picking the right tree for the right spot takes thirty minutes of research. Removing the wrong tree takes $2,000 and a day with a crane. Do the research.
Match the Tree to Your Zone
USDA hardiness zones are the starting point but they are not the whole story. A zone 7 tree will survive zone 7 winters but it might hate your clay soil or your alkaline water or the reflected heat off your south-facing brick wall. Talk to your county extension office. They have a free list of recommended species for your exact area, including soil type and precipitation. This is the single most underused free resource in residential landscaping.
Distance from the House
Plant large shade trees (oaks, maples, elms) at least 20 feet from the foundation. 30 feet is better. Medium trees (dogwoods, redbuds, crape myrtles) can go as close as 15 feet. Small ornamental trees can be 10 feet out. These are minimums. Every foot of extra distance is future insurance against root damage, branch contact with the roof, and gutter clogging from leaf drop. The cute little sapling you plant five feet from the house will be a 60-foot monster in 30 years and your grandchildren will curse your name.
Species Worth Considering
For shade in the eastern U.S., red oak and tulip poplar grow fast and tolerate a range of soils. Bald cypress handles wet sites that kill most other trees. In the west, coast live oak is nearly indestructible in California, and honeylocust does well in the mountain states. For smaller ornamental trees, serviceberry is native, produces berries for birds, and has stunning fall color. Avoid silver maple (weak wood, aggressive roots), Bradford pear (splits apart at 15 years), and any tree your local extension service lists as invasive in your state.
Planting Season and Technique
Fall is the best time to plant trees in most of the country. The roots establish during cool weather while the top is dormant, and the tree hits spring with a running start. Dig the hole two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper. The root flare, where the trunk widens at the base, should be at or slightly above grade. Burying it causes crown rot. Remove all burlap, wire baskets, and twine. Water deeply once a week for the first two growing seasons. Skip the fertilizer for the first year.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest growing shade tree?
Hybrid poplars and willows grow 6 to 8 feet per year but have weak wood and short lifespans. For a tree that grows fast AND lasts, tulip poplar, red oak, and river birch all put on 2 to 3 feet per year and live for decades.
Should I hire someone to plant a tree or do it myself?
If the tree is in a 5-gallon container you can handle it yourself. Anything in a 15-gallon or larger container or balled-and-burlapped should be planted by a pro with equipment to move it without damaging the root ball. Improper planting kills more trees than disease.